Engine Removal
Engine Removal
It has been a couple of years since I got my ERA. This winter is the winter to finaly cleanup the trany and do some general cleanup.
The car is a Japanese spec and sure is crowded under the bonnet. Any tips on where to start and what to watch out for as I go through the process of removing the engine?
Thanks,
Jeremy
The car is a Japanese spec and sure is crowded under the bonnet. Any tips on where to start and what to watch out for as I go through the process of removing the engine?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Re: Engine Removal
Hi Jeremy,
I suspect Paul might be able to help more here as he has jap spec cars himself. I know what you mean about being crowded under the bonnet.
I dont think you could cram much else in there if you tried.
There are two ways of getting the engine out.
One is out through the top with a hoist.
The other is out the bottom complete with subframe.
Did you have any idea in which way you were thinking of doing?
I have done both operations before on my UK spec replica. Both had their advantages and disadvantages.
Coming out the top has the advantage of not affecting the brakes and can be done with a typical engine hoist.
The problems with this method is access. Getting to the exhaust clamp is a pain, and getting it back on after is worse.
You will need to remove the carb from the manifold. Also the radiator will need removing in order to get access to the engine mounts.
Throttle/choke cables, heater hoses, air filter pipe etc will also need to be removed, but i suspect you know that anyway.
If you leave the turbo attached you will have to remove the starter and the oil filter housing.
Coming out the bottom (reverse of how they were built) really needed a couple of people to help, but i did it on my own though.
The subframe mounts were easier to get too. I removed the carb. Disconnected the brake pipes from the servo. unbolted the exhaust from the mounts first. Disconnected the gear linkage, throttle / choke cables, interior heater hoses. The turbo to air filter hose can be seperated by the inner wing.
in my case i undid the steering rack and removed it with with the subframe, you couls just split the track rod ends off the arms. I also had to remove the battery cable from all the clips.
Oh, remove the shocks too.
I supported the front and rear of the subframe on trolley jacks and placed large boards under the front floor and jacked the body off from there.
i had to keep adjusting the jacks as it went up until the body weight was off the suspension. It was tricky but i was able to clean up everything easier.
I hope this helps a little.
Regards
Darren.
I suspect Paul might be able to help more here as he has jap spec cars himself. I know what you mean about being crowded under the bonnet.
I dont think you could cram much else in there if you tried.
There are two ways of getting the engine out.
One is out through the top with a hoist.
The other is out the bottom complete with subframe.
Did you have any idea in which way you were thinking of doing?
I have done both operations before on my UK spec replica. Both had their advantages and disadvantages.
Coming out the top has the advantage of not affecting the brakes and can be done with a typical engine hoist.
The problems with this method is access. Getting to the exhaust clamp is a pain, and getting it back on after is worse.
You will need to remove the carb from the manifold. Also the radiator will need removing in order to get access to the engine mounts.
Throttle/choke cables, heater hoses, air filter pipe etc will also need to be removed, but i suspect you know that anyway.
If you leave the turbo attached you will have to remove the starter and the oil filter housing.
Coming out the bottom (reverse of how they were built) really needed a couple of people to help, but i did it on my own though.
The subframe mounts were easier to get too. I removed the carb. Disconnected the brake pipes from the servo. unbolted the exhaust from the mounts first. Disconnected the gear linkage, throttle / choke cables, interior heater hoses. The turbo to air filter hose can be seperated by the inner wing.
in my case i undid the steering rack and removed it with with the subframe, you couls just split the track rod ends off the arms. I also had to remove the battery cable from all the clips.
Oh, remove the shocks too.
I supported the front and rear of the subframe on trolley jacks and placed large boards under the front floor and jacked the body off from there.
i had to keep adjusting the jacks as it went up until the body weight was off the suspension. It was tricky but i was able to clean up everything easier.
I hope this helps a little.
Regards
Darren.
Re: Engine Removal
Things are fairly busy to say the least under the bonnet on a Japanese one. As Darren suggests, either up and out of pull the body up off the whole lot. Only complication is the A/C which will just need to be disconnected and special care taken to not damage any pipes as these will be unobtainable.
Any help of advice when putting it back together you ask.
Paul
Any help of advice when putting it back together you ask.
Paul
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex
Re: Engine Removal
I've not done a Jap spec ERA but have done a UK one and quite a few standard minis all out the top.
My only advice would be to take off as much as you can with the engine in place before trying to lift it out and,
DONT FORGET THE SPEEDO CABLE!
(I always seem to forget it LOL)
My only advice would be to take off as much as you can with the engine in place before trying to lift it out and,
DONT FORGET THE SPEEDO CABLE!
(I always seem to forget it LOL)
Keith Miller
Re: Engine Removal
Good call on the speedo cable Keith.
I found it easier to remove it from the speedo rather than trying to release it from the engine.
I found it easier to remove it from the speedo rather than trying to release it from the engine.
Re: Engine Removal
I ussually undo the speedo cable once I have the engine half out, easy to get at then. Just remember to pause and connect it on the way back in.
Paul
Paul
Re: Engine Removal
Ok, I think I will take it out the top. Just started into it this week. It is going to be my winter project. Hopefully it will only take me that long.
I will most likely be asking questions about how to put it back together.
Jeremy
I will most likely be asking questions about how to put it back together.
Jeremy
Re: Engine Removal
Definately have the heat proof insulation up arround the turbo box in the bulkhead and make sure there is no rot there, very prone to it there with all the heat.
Paul
Paul
Re: Engine Removal
ok, things are finally underway. I brought on some local mini help and they were optimistic that we could have it out in two hours. Well... that didn't happen. We are 3.5 hours in. We have also change the approach and are taking the engine out the bottom. Attached is a picture of the Engine Bay before we started. Then a picture at 3.5 hours. Almost looks like we did nothing.
When taking the engine out the bottom do we need to remove the turbo and manifolds? Or the AC pump and the starter? It doesn't look like it is going anywhere with the turbo in there.
Thanks,
Jeremy
When taking the engine out the bottom do we need to remove the turbo and manifolds? Or the AC pump and the starter? It doesn't look like it is going anywhere with the turbo in there.
Thanks,
Jeremy
- Attachments
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- Turbo and Manifold
- turbo.JPG (128.36 KiB) Viewed 35591 times
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- Engine Bay after 3.5 hours
- Engine Bay After 3 hours.jpg (167.78 KiB) Viewed 35591 times
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- Engine Bay before Starting
- Engine Bay.JPG (121.34 KiB) Viewed 35591 times
Re: Engine Removal
From what I remember from late 1996, when I dropped mine out the bottom, once all was diconnected and the exhaust was totally removed, the engine rocked forward enough to take the turbo and manifold out upward before dropping the subframe(and engine).
Just another thought on seeing your photos.. take more as a reference aid for when you have to replace things in the right place later...
Just another thought on seeing your photos.. take more as a reference aid for when you have to replace things in the right place later...